shopping

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cacio e pepe

A little over a year ago we were wandering the streets of Rome in the blazing heat of an August scorcher. It’s a far cry from where I am sitting writing these words in a suburban strip mall Starbucks as the first flakes of snow for the season fall outside the window.

It was hardly a food focused vacation, but I as whenever I travel, I had my heart set on trying new and interesting local dishes, from the unique and interesting to—of course—the typical and regional tropes. One evening, after a long walk through the narrow streets in and out of tourist shops and a museum or two, and maybe I think we strolled under the dome of the Pantheon that morning, we succumbed to the call of a barker who was standing at the entrance to the patio of a street restaurant and took a table for a mid-evening dinner. We perused the menu, ordered a bottle of wine, and noshed on some breads. It all looked great, but my eyes went to the cacio e pepe, a (literally) cheese and pepper pasta that is everywhere in Rome. 

Properly made, this is basically a creamy pasta sauce of pecorino cheese melted over pasta and peppered with a hearty kick. Italian food likes to label itself spicy, but personally I find even the spicier Italian offerings generally on the milder side compared to Asian or, say, Mexican cuisine. But, I do find cacio e pepe, at least the offering I tried, ranked pretty high on the spicy scale. Peppery spicy, obviously,  and not melt your face off spicy, but certainly reach for the water hot.

I hadn’t thought much about cacio e pepe since that evening Rome until, at work, I cracked open a case full of ready to serve pasta sauce that had arrived on the back of a delivery truck. This isn’t meant to be a brand specific review, so I won’t bother writing a run down of the quality or taste or any of that. Chances are you have your own brands at your own stores in your own countries anyhow. But I will say that I spun up my discount one evening last week and bought the ingredients to reconstruct a fresh-from-the-jar version of that Roman evening.

The Kid hated it. She likes her share of spice these days, but hasn’t warmed up to pepper apparently. We had half a bottle of chianti left over from the previous weekend and so over some pasta secce cooked al dente we followed the jar directions and recreated a quick and easy cacio e pepe at home. 

Couldn’t you have made it from scratch, you ask?

Well, sure. But that’s kind of the thing isn’t it? It is very easy to leap to these home cooking solutions, reaching to achieve great feats of regional recreation from your own kitchen post-vacation. Sure. But I also am a strong believer in incremental steps. Jarred sauces are not great, but often they are pretty good and set a base line for what a dish should be aspiring towards. I like to think of it as bracketing. I had tried a version in a Roman street cafe and I had tried a version poured from a  jar purchased from a local grocery store. I won’t put a stake in the ground and say those were the top and bottom of the scale, heck no, but they certainly have now given me some solid context for the flavours intended for this probably-famous dish.

The same thing happened to us in Milan. We stopped in a little restaurant and tried a Milanese risotto, a dish heavy in saffron spices, creamy and rich and oddly enough reminding me of an upscale mac and cheese. Then, when we came home back to Canada, we bought a couple packages of rice and spice “just add wine and water and heat” mixes from the local Italian food market and made our home version of it. 

In both cases, cacio e pepe and Milanese risotto, I now have a kind of bracketed expectation of taste and preparation and final result from two very different sources. And I suddenly have the confidence to, maybe when I have some time to cook, make each from scratch.  Ambition, in my heart of hearts, blossoms from familiarity and confidence in the pursuit. Both of these things are bolstered by, yeah travel blah blah blah, but also shortcuts and incremental steps. A bag of rice and spice, or a jar of sauce—both cut a path to a bolder effort to make these from rawer ingredients. After all, that store of mine doesn’t just sell jars of ready to serve sauce, it sells pecorino cheese, too.

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the great pasta kerfuffle

Eating pasta on the streets of Rome

I alluded to this in my most recent post on brand loyalty: the great spaghetti sauce change up of 2024 and the “kerfuffle that caused” in our house.

First of all, we’re not Italian. So when I write about “spaghetti sauce” I need to be exceptionally clear that we are basically talking about the red bolognese-ish sauce that we concoct on our stove top and pour over top of spaghetti pasta noodles boiled from a box. It is a Canadian-slash-North-American bastardization of traditional Italian pastas prepared out of raw convenience, and as I wrote in my previous post, a lot of brand habit and loyalty.

Second, I’ve tasted great pasta sauces. We have been to Italy and I have eaten cacio e pepe and ragù alla bolognese, both on the narrow street cafes of Rome, and I know—I know—that what we make at home is not even a knock off, but rather a work night meal distant cousin-by-marriage thrice removed alternate version of these dishes.

What we are very poorly copying is a kind of bolognese sauce, probably better known in Italian as a ragù alla bolognese or more simply something like a ragù bolognese.

The difference is that for fifteen or so years our version involved a little powdered spice pack that got mixed into some browned ground beef with a can of tomato paste and a couple cups of tap water and rehydrated into a chemical after-tasting red sauce that took about fifteen minutes from fridge to table and was “good enough” to make it through the meal rush on average once per week.

But then we went to Italy, as I mentioned, and I had some time on my hands over the winter and I started thinking to myself that I probably could use some of that time on my hands to come up with a better version of our weekly sauce hack that (a) was just as simple and cost effective to prepare, (b) didn’t come from a spice envelope via the grocery store and (c) sure, still wasn’t an Italian sauce but probably tasted a bit closer—maybe a first cousin, only once removed kinda thing.

So. This is my new recipe.

bardo’s sausage ragu

400 grams of spicy Italian sausage meat
1 onion
2 cloves of garlic
1 large can of tomato sauce
1 small can of tomato paste
2 solid glugs of olive oil

Brown the sausage meat. I like to break it into hearty chunks, but you can crumble it, too. Either, or. Add the onion and garlic to soften. Add the tomato paste and sauce as well as the olive oil, and simmer it all for a while. Serve over pasta.

In that previous post I wrote about the habits connected to this thing I was thinking of as brand loyalty. We were stuck in this rut of bad spaghetti sauce from a powder for years simply because there was a lot of cognitive load to go from that weekly routine and the ingredient list we had memorized over to this updated version.  I started cooking this new version, and yet the groceries would appear after a shopping trip with the ingredients for the old version. I would make a trip to the store to buy the stuff for the new version and then the wrong one would get made, or a broken version of the new one would get made (missing an ingredient or two) and then feelings would be hurt on both sides because “we knew the old one” and “you’re complicating things” and “but this version is nicer” and “yeah, it’s good but you need to update the shopping list so we buy the right stuff.” It was a kerfuffle. 

Six months later we’re pretty locked in on the new updated recipe, but seriously—it took some leaping and jumping and planning to break the old habit—to break the loyalty to the old, easy way.

And that is what I was getting at in my last post: walking into a grocery store and trying to unravel the list you might have built into your brain about how to make simple daily meals for yourself and/or your family is not as simple as picking up a new brand of ketchup or a new cut of meat or a different vegetable you’re not used to cooking with. It’s an extra step. And that’s a challenge when you shop while traveling, or just checking out a new food market—hopefully you’re the kind of person who is willing to step up to that kind of challenge.

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loyal out of habit

I’ve been thinking a lot about brand loyalty lately.

I’m surrounded by food these days. Overflowing shelves packed with things that seem delicious and interesting and unique—but yet I don’t recognize a single brand name.  It might sound like I’m describing some kind of weird suburban middle-aged man’s nightmare. But no. On the contrary. I’ve just been wandering the aisles of a local grocery store that specializes in importing and selling products that either originate in Europe and Asia or serve a more eclectic low-volume local food producer niche (like organic and vegan and gluten-free, say.) And my “regular” grocery store doesn’t stock much of this, or if they do it is relegated to a single aisle down which my cart rarely turns because, well—I have this kinda sorta outdated idea of brand loyalty stuck in my thick craw.

I’m going to be shopping at this new place a lot more in the foreseeable future. Reasons. If you know you know kinda reasons.

But that does mean that I’ll really need to get over my brand loyalty complex and get a little less picky about scanning the shelves for those familiar brands which I’ve been eating my whole life. 

Because I just have.

After all, brand loyalty has a lot to do with habit, doesn’t it?  We like to tell ourselves it’s about quality or consistency or other jibber-jabber ideas, but in the end—I mean if we’re really being honest with ourselves—it’s a lot to do with habit.  How many of us, honestly, have tried a different brand of ketchup with enough gusto to give it a proper chance? How many of us stray from our regular brand of margarine? Or even try a unique variety of salad dressing, let alone a whole other brand name?

Oh, I know you adventurous types exist—maybe you’re even in the majority in this little subset of readers reading a food-ish blog—but take your average ordinary grocery shopper and I have a gut vibe check on that, and know how I personally shop, and so long as price isn’t really a factor then—well—I’m a brand loyal guy through and through.

But it’s all just habit. Lowering the cognitive load of changing things up. Climbing out of that rut is hard work, right?

We shop when we travel. 

I mean, even when we go to the mountains for a weekend, we hit the grocery store and buy at least half our meals to prep in a rental kitchen (assuming and assuring the condo or whatever we rent usually has some kind of kitchen.)  The grocery store in our favourite mountain town, though, is just another cookie cutter version of our local everyday store. Maybe that’s a bad example. 

But here’s a better one: when we traveled to Europe last year—we went shopping. We hit up the local markets and grocery stores and bought up breakfast foods and stuff to make sandwhiches and you know what? Gasp. Surprise. How odd? We couldn’t find all those North American brands in the corner grocery store in Paris or Milan. Who’d have thunk it, huh?

Of course we didn’t.

And yeah, its the adventure of travel. A different brand of milk. A strange box of cereal. A little jar of jam with a label in a foreign language and I’m pretty sure that says “strawberry” but I could totally be wrong, right? Adventure!

But then you go back home, settle back into your routine and you’re there, right back there, buying the familiar brands to which you have built up a habitual loyalty. And that’s okay, too? It really is.

But why?

Brand loyalty. Maybe it’s just really good marketing. Maybe it really is about quality. Yet, I like to think it has more to do with something I alluded to a couple paragraphs back: you gotta think more when you shift brands. There is a cognitive hurdle to leap over. There is a decision to make. If you’re already trying to figure out what to make for dinner for the next three days, who wants to add to the complexity by deciding if maybe we should switch up the brand of soy sauce, coffee, or cheese we’ve been buying for twenty years.  Some day I’ll write a whole post about the day I invented a new spaghetti sauce standard in our house and the kerfuffle that caused—and yet now that we’ve cleared the chasm between the old way and the new way, we can’t imagine doing it the old way any more.  It was all brand loyalty and breaking habits.

I think about brand loyalty a lot when I’m wandering those aisles. People are going to shop at a store like this one, maybe for the first time or maybe over and over for a few things here and a few things there, and every new product they put in their cart is a decision they need to make? Right there. Every break from a familiar brand is a barrier to busting down an old habit.

So, how many habits are you willing to change while visiting your local market, huh? I’m going to bend my mind a lot in the coming weeks.